DIEGO RÍOS, NAMED YOUNG WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR IN TIM ATKIN’S ‘RÍAS BAIXAS 2023’ SPECIAL ISSUE
In the world of wine, Diego Ríos is one of the names of the year in Galicia, and will continue to be so in the coming years. Ríos, winemaker at Bodegas Granbazán, has become the ‘Young Winemaker of the Year’ following the publication of the special report ‘Rías Baixas 2023’ by the journalist and Master of Wine Tim Atkin.
The famous British writer has just published one of the most eagerly awaited reports of the year on the Galician region. It is his first in-depth report on the DO Rías Baixas, where he talks about the present and the future of a region that fascinates him. Climate, terroirs, wines and a selection of the best producers in the area. That is where he has singled out Diego Ríos as ‘Young Winemaker of the Year’. Ríos, with almost five years as winemaker at Bodegas Granbazán, already has an interesting career behind him. After graduating from the Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile with a degree in agricultural engineering, he worked as a viticulturist and oenologist at one of the most prestigious wineries in the Mosel (Germany) ‘Heymann-Löwenstein’. After six years there, where he gained an international vision and a great experience in working with white varieties, the call came from Galicia, more specifically from Granbazán, where Pedro Martínez signed him to lead the winery’s oenological department.
Since Diego Ríos has been in charge of the winemaking process, the wines of Bodegas Granbazán have received numerous international awards. The latest are the scores received in this special Rías Baixas 2023 report written by Tim Atkin after his visit to Galicia last July and after the tastings carried out in London over the last year.
The wines that the Briton highlights in the report are:
94 Granbazán Don Álvaro de Bazán 2020. Rías Baixas (13.9%)
Produced in what Diego Ríos calls the “textbook” 2020 vintage on Granbazán’s Finca Tremoedo estate in Vilanova de Arousa, this uses a combination of stainless steel and foudre ageing. Effortlessly perfumed, textured and bright, it combines pear and citrus fruit aromas, racy acidity and an undertone of cinnamon spice. Beautifully balanced. 2023-29
93 Granbazán Etiqueta Ambar 2022. Rías Baixas (13.4%)
An equal mix of own and purchased grapes, all from the Salnés Valley, this is an older vine cuvée from Granbazán that’s lees aged but entirely unwooded. Textured yet focused, it combines aromas of jasmine, hay and thatch with a palate of green apple, pear and lemon zest and appealing weight and length. Very well judged. 2023-29
92 Granbazán Limousin 2020. Rías Baixas (13.4%)
A wine that was ahead of its time in 1989, Limousin is less oaky now than it was then, with 20% new barrels in the mix. Subtle toast and vanilla spice flavours are complemented by plenty of zip and acidity, flavours of lime and fresh toast and the balance that’s a welcome feature of the wines made by young Chilean oenologist, Diego Ríos. 2023-29
92 Granbazán Etiqueta Verde 2022. Rías Baixas (13.4%)
Described by Diego Ríos as “our classic wine”, despite the presence of 5% of grapes from the more recently created Ribera do Ulla sub-zone, this is a commendably reliable Salnés Valley Albariño. Subtle leesy weight, understated granitic grip, pear, lime and white peach flavours and tangy acidity combine appealingly on the palate. 2023-27